Potters and Ox-carts
Today, scheduled to see a floating village, Chnok True, however turned out the way in was impassable because of the flooding; disappointing. Our guide assured us we would see another floating village on our way across Tonle Sap to Siem Reap. Entry into the town; on the roundabout a huge ceramic pot representing the pottery produced in the Province of Chhnang. Many, many, interesting sights including these two wonderful – peddlers carts – no-no – they are transport merchants with ox carts, but they so remind me of peddlers carts from eons ago.
The first dray (ox cart) pulled by skinny white cows carrying the work of local potters. What a wonderful sight! The pots are so cleverly anchored together from the side of the cart and stuffed with straw to prevent breakages.
The second vehicle is more ‘modern ‘ with a two-wheeled metal trailer pulled by a motorcycle.The pots all made by local potters for the domestic markets in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. The ox cart delivers pottery to the trading ports along Tonle Sap Lake and Tonle Sap River.
What may look like silver buckets hanging from the side of the ox cart and behind the motorcycle driver, are in fact the New Laos Stove(NLS), a metal covered baked clay stove, designed by Cambodia based NGO,Geres. The design whilst based on the traditional Cambodian clay cooking stove, has improved grate design and insulation. The Cambodian population (about 90%) depend on wood and charcoal for daily cooking purposes, this has placed the Cambodian forests under severe threat. The New Lao Stove saves 20-30% of wood and charcoal compared to the traditional clay stove.
The NLS stove also provides health benefits with less smoke inside homes to damage lungs and eyes. Money saved buying charcoal or wood can be used to buy more food for the families. The stoves made by villagers in the province; women in particular have learnt this skill, which in turn provides an economic return for their families. The innovate new stove gives a ‘win win’ situation for families and the environment, with each stove providing a real saving on greenhouse gas emissions per year.
Potters Village Ondong Rossey
Stopping-off at the village of Ondong Rossey where the terracotta pottery originates. On the main drag a large stall displays a range of attractive pots for sale all made by the local potters.
Village home potters
Many of the villagers are now potters and make pottery in their own homes and have pots on display or drying in their front yards. The pottery made in the ‘off season’ to their rice-growing and harvesting. The village and the province has many potters, some who work solely in the manufacture of the New Laos Stove (NLS).
Pottery and pots
The visit to the actual pottery at Ondong Rossey is interesting to see, with a wood-fired brick-kiln in situ , pots thrown on a kick-wheel or made by hand. The potters were very engaging and we watched two very pleasant ladies demonstrate their skills in wheel-throwing and hand-made clay ware. Very clever and skilfully done, all with a beautiful smile. The clay is light in color until fired, it then becomes a bright terracotta-red after the kiln firing process.
The potters craft handed down over centuries is now enjoying a resurgence in the Province of Chhnang. Cambodian pottery is an ancient craft dating back to the Angkor Kingdom (802-1431). The years of the Khmer Rouge took it toll on teachers and students in the arts and crafts, as it did in every field of education and intellect. A group of Japanese potters arrived in 2009 to train residents of Ondong Rossey in modern practices, the kick wheels and kiln installation part of this project. Japan also has a long history in pottery and skilled potters.
Next Battambang, which is on the banks of the Stung Sangke River, and is the second largest city in Cambodia….
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